Fashion & Art
  1. Interview with Flower Couture

    Interview with Aya of Flower Couture
    by Nicole Wong
    Photography by Akko Terasawa

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    “My subconscious always saw human figures with plants sprouting from their heads.”

    Always on a look out for real and raw talent, Astonish is ecstatic to finally found a hidden gem so close to home. An ingenious floral artist with her love for plants and a playful nature, Aya started experimenting with flowers on her roommates one day, and as they say, the rest is history.

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    ASTONISH: Were there any other earlier influences in your career?

    AYA: It all started out with the yearning for a creative environment among my roommates and I, 3 years ago. This spontaneous chemistry later expanded with more like-minded creative individuals who love to create different art projects together. So I guess these collaborative efforts enabled us to bounce our influences off each other.

    ASTONISH: Where do you draw your inspirations?

    AYA: My major in architecture, and my love for floral design came about the same time. Both of these depended a lot on structure, balance and engineering fundamentals. With the flowers, they gave me more room to play with their natural forms, colors, and structure. Perhaps subconsciously, I was inspired to bring out the beauty of natural forms through architecture knowledge. It’s very much an interactive process that builds around the theme, the subject matter, the cultural or historical relevance, and the people I work with. The spontaneity from different personalities, styles, and ideas all became part of my inspirations.

    ASTONISH: Have any of your designs been interpreted from a lucid dream?

    AYA: I believe your surroundings and the daily events that happen in your life often impact how and what you think. Whether or not it’s a conscious or subconscious decision, the things in my life provide many sources of inspiration. Dreams may be influenced by realities, and vice versa. What I do is rather surreal. The designs from my dreams could definitely be interrelated somehow.

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    ASTONISH: Have any of your models lost their patience or complained about the weight of their flower couture?

    AYA: Thankfully, all of them are very professional even though some of the flowers weigh a ton! They love to be part of the projects. With that said, the excitement and the enjoyment they get out of the projects outweigh the weight.

    ASTONISH: Share with us some of the most fun moments in your flower couture career.

    AYA: We always have fun in our projects with the excitement and the positive vibe simply bouncing off everybody. This gave a great source of energy for everyone. The belief in creating a project based on creativity and passion rather than on money, also plays an important fun factor. Not looking at the projects from a business point of view is important too.

    I recalled an incident where this little girl who was in the vicinity came to our photo shoot, and started imitating our projects with her own props of teddy bears, umbrellas, flowers and such; while we worked. It was a truly an endearing sight.

    I am just thankful that these projects expanded my horizons, and it’s very fulfilling to realize how they have made an impact on others. That to me is the ultimate fun.

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    ASTONISH: How do you come up with the concepts of each design? Are they based on the seasonality of the flowers available?

    AYA: The executional framework definitely starts with the availability of the flowers during the sketching stage, then followed by the theme or the subject matter after. However, there were times when the flowers were available during the sketching stage, but were sold out when it was time for execution. It’s a challenge with time. At that point, being flexible is key, and because modifications from my original designs are mandatory, that inevitably becomes another creative process in the making with problem solving. Sometimes, the modified designs combined with the two concepts turned out better than expected. It’s truly magical! Being surprised is definitely part of the fun too.

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    ASTONISH: If you were to design flower couture for yourself, what would it look like, and where would you draw the concept?

    AYA: I consider myself more of a director who works behind the scenes. I enjoy executing more and when I think of a concept, I base it on the personality of the model. Strangely, it’s difficult to picture myself as the one who gets adorned with the flowers. The only time I would “design flower couture for myself” is when I need to experiment or understand the structure of the flowers, and how the mechanics work before dressing the models. It’s more of a practical need, as the scale of some flower couture is pretty big, and balance is key.

    ASTONISH: Where do you see yourself in five years in the flower couture industry?

    AYA: I certainly enjoy working with people from different fields, and that not only expanded my horizons but also my creative network. So far I have worked mainly with photographers, makeup artists, fashion stylists, and visual artists on 2-dimensional prints. Ultimately, I would love to challenge storytelling through motion pictures, like a short film, learning from live visual performances. An art piece that is sequence oriented, where the audience can relive the moments of their favorite scenes.

    Flower couture started off like a random cosmic force where everything simply put everything into place. There was a natural phenomenal chemistry that brought everything together. I will simply go with the flow, and see what happens next. I am curious to find out where all of this is going!

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    Don’t forget to check out more of Aya and Flower Couture at www.flower-couture.com

  2. Interview with Photographer Alex Martinez

    Interview with Photographer Alex Martinez
    Interview by Nicole Wong
    Edited by Michael Polce

    “The cliché saying about photography is reality; it reflects what’s going on in life, that’s not true at all. There’s nothing objective about photography. As soon as you look through the lens, make decisions on what to include and what not to include in the frame, it’s not reality. It becomes an impression of what you see around you.” – Alex Martinez

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    SF-based photographer Alex Martinez has worn many hats, but his expertise and passion lie strictly in photography, and he is happy to let the experts be experts in their respective fields. Down to earth, knowledgeable and creative, Martinez believes in sculpting his craft by adhering to a constant learning curve from various individuals. He draws his inspirations from different sources in order to be on top of the game. When he is not looking through the lens, Martinez is constantly searching for the perfect cup of coffee. 

    ASTONISH: Have you found the perfect cup of coffee?

    ALEX: It’s funny because that line was inspired by my search for the perfect wave as a surfer when I was living in Southern California: it’s a surfer’s goal. And to answer your question, no I haven’t. You will never find the perfect cup of coffee, but it’s fun trying since there’s a huge coffee culture up here [in San Francisco].

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    ASTONISH: What differentiates a good model from a bad one?  What makes a good model?

    ALEX: Obviously they got to have a look about them, but what it all comes down to is their work ethics – great attitude, great discipline, great professionalism, and a team player by amplifying the talents of the other members in the team. Being pretty or photogenic is not enough, they need to be a good asset to the team and claim their space as a creative professional. Having the ability to switch in and out of personas for different looks, like an actor, is important too.

    ASTONISH: What draws you to photography?

    ALEX: I love art, and I am very fixated on creating great composition that focuses on lines, contours, design, color, and contrast as opposed to the superficiality of beauty. When I first started out with photography, everything was captured on film. The beginning to the end of the manual process was such a gratifying experience for me, like the elements of surprise from the negatives after each developing process. Not saying it was better, just different. Seeing all the talented collaborations crafting out a single vision definitely draws me to it, too.

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    ASTONISH: What is beauty?

    ALEX: It’s more than symmetry; it’s beyond what we’re pre-programmed to find certain things attractive. To me, beauty has a lot more to do with the audience, how well we know them and the context of photography, as opposed to the models or subject. Beauty is newness, simplicity, timeless but still pushing the envelope a little bit. Originality that encompasses a sense of contribution to a greater movement, like a trend that has been taken up to the next level – evoking emotional reactions. That’s pretty amazing.

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    ASTONISH: If you have a chance to work with anyone in this world, who would it be and why?

    ALEX: I would be happy just to spend a day with Nick Night. I don’t even have to work with him. I would spend the day by asking him loads of questions, get him coffee, watch and learn as a bystander, as a student. That guy is a legend.

    Other than that, my dream assignment would be to travel with Monocle magazine to photograph the street style, and the environments that create those street styles around the world. Better yet, go traveling for Monocle magazine on an assignment, with Nick Night.

    ASTONISH: Every photo shoot is based on a concept, and where do you draw your inspirations?

    ALEX: A lot of my inspirations come from my client’s vision, and the ideas that bounce back and forth during our early conservations that involve everybody. It’s really gratifying when my clients trust me to fulfill their visions for them. It’s a huge compliment, and with that bit of pressure, I find myself paying really close attention to their vision before articulating it for them.

    My personal inspirations come from painters such as Mark Rothko, Jackson Pollack, and John Cage – a personal favorite, when I was a student in New York. I learned a lot from people who are better than me, and by studying what they are doing right and how they approach things can be very motivating for me to stay on top of the game.

    Simply put, never get complacent, and be a real student of your craft – something that’s relevant to your style and someone whom you admire.

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    ASTONISH: Tell us about some of the challenges you face in your job.

    ALEX: I used to encounter many people who think photography is easy due to what they see over the internet, or with the thinking that they can produce the same kind of standards that are comparable to professional photography with their digital cameras. That attitude undermines my craft, and by not respecting what I do when I should be the one who’s bringing something to the table can be really frustrating. Rationalizing with them instead of getting personal or defensive would be a way to overcome the challenges.

    ASTONISH: Between fashion, beauty, product or nature shoots, which category do you love most and why?

    ALEX: I have only delved into beauty shots in the last couple of years, and it’s a completely different entity all together compared to fashion or nature shots. Beauty shoots require much more precision from the entire team, hence making them slower. And the hard work that everyone puts in really motivates me to sculpt the shoot to perfection, to bring out the team’s talent with the wow factor.

    Nature shoots are way more difficult to get it right, and to set yourself apart as a photographer from the experts in that area. I have nothing but respect for them, but I personally do not enjoy nature shoots at all, and I am not going to pretend to be good at it. I will say, let the experts be the experts.

    It’s a tough call between beauty and fashion shoots. Fashion shoots incorporate great hair and makeup artists, great designers, as well as really good graphic designers because they’re going to take your work and walk through it some more. Fashion shoots are all about collaborative problem solving, and team efforts that allow more room for spontaneity and creativity along the way.

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    ASTONISH: Which photo app do you love the most?

    ALEX: I am one of the few professional photographers, who love Instagram, and I love what Instagram is doing for photography. It has turned everybody with a smartphone to be a photographer – going through their day, taking a minute and recognizing something awesome and capturing something beautiful everyday. And it has helped many of my clients to articulate what they love in terms of photography style. There are many insecure photographers out there who hate Instagram, thinking it’s cheapening the experience of photography, the industry or mimicking old flaws of film, but I feel it’s more about their worries of them being under valued as a photographer. Instagram, as a medium and an art form, has done nothing but created more photographers appreciating photography. If Instagram was a real threat to my craft, then I must be doing something wrong, and I should really improve on being a better photographer because there should be more to it than that.

    ASTONISH: What is trending in photography right now?

    ALEX: Well, that would tie in perfectly with smartphone photography and Instragram, because several of my clients are now more interested in the look and feel of Instagram than ever before. When digital photography first came out, every camera in the market is engineered to be the best by producing perfectly beautiful crisp, sharp, clean, and saturated photographs. Over time, we started to miss the imperfections from film photography that has a soft focus, or photographs with a lens flare that makes them more dynamic and unpredictable. Those in-between moments are perceived as nostalgic and cool with human elements added to it. It’s not so much about the subject anymore, but how you approach the subject. As a matter of fact, many of my big clients have specifically requested for that imperfection and a human touch to the photographs that the readers resonate with. This has been a welcoming trend for me.

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    ASTONISH: Describe a good day in your field of work.

    ALEX: It’s definitely when I surprise myself with the amazing work that I produce when I am behind the camera. A good photoshoot has a lot of call and response going on among all members of the team. I love it when my clients and the team appreciate and compliment my work, telling me I have nailed it. That really makes my day, as it’s a really gratifying experience.

    ASTONISH: How would you describe your style as a photographer?

    ALEX: Professionally, I am not always presented with the opportunities to execute that style but there’s a style that I am chasing. One day I hope to be hired to do a black and white Film de Noire – cinematic, dark in tone beauty shoot that required very challenging lighting. In other words, moody editorial fashion shoot that depicts old Hollywood style. I love black and white photography not for nostalgic reasons, but for a reductive quality allowing you to focus on the essential elements that exudes the essence of photography, and it also leaves more to the imagination. Perhaps I wouldn’t describe it as my style, but rather how I conduct myself with a strong focus on light, line, composition, and the black and white philosophy of less is more ; allowing a feeling of mood to play out.

    For more of Alex’s works: visit portfolio.photosophic.com.

  3. Interview with Designer Coye Nokes

    Interview with Designer Coye Nokes
    Interview by Cara Cerino
    Edited by Emily Claeys

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    When industry convention seems to dictate that women be limited to design or management, it is empowering to see a strong-minded woman take on all aspects of a brand. Flying in the face of unwritten rules, Coye Nokes launched her eponymous line of footwear in 2009. With a background in strategy consultation for European luxury companies, Nokes presents a determination to combine quality workmanship with attractive, modern designs made for the Carrie Bradshaw set. Nokes’ devoted customers are self-assured trendsetters making an impact in the working world. Known for her clean, architecturally designed shoes that pair unusual combinations of materials, Nokes creates pieces that make playful-yet-professional statements of capability and control. As an up-and-coming luxury brand that already has a strong grip on the world market, Coye Nokes offers the perfect aesthetic for metropolitan women who prefer to carve their own niches in the well-worn business world.

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    In conversation, Nokes told me that she is constantly inspired by the metropolitan street style found in the two cities she splits her time between: New York and London. With her customers as her muse, Nokes has established a self-replenishing cycle of design that ensures freshness and excitement in her work. Her immediate boutique success may be explained by shrewd corporate intuition and a genuine love of footwear—qualities that have helped her brand stand out among less conceptualized luxury lines.

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    Nokes thoroughly researches materials, drawing from artistic and architectural influences. Her dedication to combining unique materials—sumptuous fabrics, suedes, feathers, sequins—adds dimension and depth to her designs. Nokes’ choices effectively act as a fashion barometer for upcoming seasons. Evolving the brand with every new collection, she refuses to let her designs become stale.

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    Nokes keeps a fascinating scrapbook-style blog of influences on her site, coyenokes.com. With a firm base in modern architecture as her template, Nokes uses her blog (“Journal”) to delve deeper into her strong and sometimes unconventional sense of aesthetics. Nokes keeps seasonal motivations at arm’s length—never straying from her brand’s core, but allowing interesting themes to penetrate pieces throughout her collections.

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    Nokes’ passion for finding inspiration in her customers and her readiness to broadcast seasonal influences to a virtual public indicate that feedback is essential to her process. She embraces the age of digital accessibility for the betterment of her brand, while giving consumers the ability to make a personal connection with her concepts and ideas. This permission and encouragement of growth is also reflected in Nokes’ philanthropy. The company supports several non-profits that focus on female liberation and self-exploration.

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    Nokes shows no sign of ebbing into irrelevance, with plans to expand the line and embark on new ventures soon. Already well-known to intrepid fashionistas and acclaimed by critics, Coye Nokes has the substance to succeed that most buzz brands lack.

     

    For more of Coye Nokes, visit http://www.coyenokes.com/

  4. Interview with Esther Han, Designer at Anna Sui

    Interview with Esther Han, Designer at Anna Sui.
    Interview by Ryan Chua
    Edited by Michael Polce

    “Not only be willing to do grunt work, but do it to the best of your ability because, I promise you, you are being watched and noticed.”

    Have you ever wondered what it would take to work alongside one of the top five fashion designer icons of the decade? Oakland native and FIDM-alumnus Esther Han took the time to chat with us about her personal challenges in pursuing her fashion dream and becoming a designer at Anna Sui. We watched her grow from her early days at University of California, Berkeley as a Sociology student, to moving to New York and experiencing the bittersweet reality of the fashion world. Already known in the industry for having a gift for construction and an amazing eye for detail and design, Esther’s journey is an inspiration to us all.

    To access the complete article and view all of the stunning images, please sign in. Not a member yet? It’s easy to join ASTONISHWorld!

     

  5. Interview with Model Amanda Yu

    Interview with FORD Model Amanda Yu
    By Chelsea McCoy

    “I hope to be the best that I can be while I’m here in New York. Later in life, I’ll look back and be proud of myself for trying.”

    20-year-old Amanda Yu thought it was a joke when her agent asked her if she would like to move to New York for a few months to model. Yu leaped at the chance and hasn’t looked back. “There are so many clients and opportunities here. It’s amazing,” Yu said, not to mention the cherry on top, walking the runway during New York Fashion Week.

    Most of Yu’s work comes from e-commerce websites in the ranks of Saks Fifth Avenue, Ann Taylor Loft, Macy’s, Target, Gilt Group, and Ralph Lauren Rugby. You could still see her pop up in some catalogs and magazine editorials in which Yu said are “always a lot of fun.”

    ASTONISH: You are originally from San Francisco, right? What made you decide to move to New York?

    AMANDA: Yes, I’m from San Ramon, California. It’s a little less than an hour away from San Francisco. I had already started my first year of college, so it was a big deal to leave that behind and move to New York. I guess my motivation to actually get up and move was that I wanted to give modeling a 110% try. It was really hard balancing both modeling and schoolwork, especially when I was traveling to New York for work and missing countless days of school. It was a huge lifestyle change for me, but I love it now. I hope to be the best that I can be while I’m here in New York. Later in life, I’ll look back and be proud of myself for trying.

    ASTONISH: What was your most memorable campaign?

    AMANDA: I think Abercrombie. It went on for a whole week in Montauk. There were about 50-60 models, and we got to take acting classes as well as dancing. I met people from all over the world, which was very cool. Plus, when I was growing up, I had dreamed of being an Abercrombie model! In middle school my closet only contained clothes from Abercrombie and Hollister [laughs].

    ASTONISH: Do you have any exciting projects or campaigns coming up?

    AMANDA: Not that I know of.

    ASTONISH: What does your outfit look like on your day off?

    AMANDA: I always have either black or dark jeans on with a comfortable top or jacket with my ultimately favorite over-the-knee boots from Stuart Weitzman.

    ASTONISH: Would you call yourself a fashionista? If so, what are some of your favorite labels?

    AMANDA: I definitely enjoy following current trends and designers, but I’m not too dedicated to it. Rachel Zoe is one of my favorite labels. Her style defines my taste in clothes. Other favorites are Helmut Lang, Alexander Wang, and Uniqlo — I’m a huge fan of simple and they have everything possible that is simple. [Also] Zara and Loft.

    ASTONISH: What is your favorite part about modeling? And your least favorite?

    AMANDA: My favorite part about modeling is wearing amazing clothes, and I enjoy being photographed so much. Most of the time, a day at work flies by for me because I’m enjoying the clothes I try on and get to move around in it in front of a camera. My least favorite is probably when things go badly when I’m traveling. One time, my flight to Seattle was delayed six hours due to a maintenance problem. It only takes five to get there! By the time I got to the hotel, I had to be up in two hours to work. It was like working off a red-eye.

    ASTONISH: If you could work for any campaign, who would it be?

    AMANDA: I’m not sure! There are just so many brands and designers out there that I’d love to shoot for. It is hard to pick just one.

    ASTONISH: What is one thing that other models and industry professionals don’t know about you?

    AMANDA: I think I tell everybody my life story when I meet them. I can’t think of something they don’t know about me. Here’s something random instead. I only eat green, red, and purple Skittles! Skittles and water are the first things I buy when I get through security at an airport.

    For more of Amanda, visit her official Ford Models page