Julius’ Smoky Approach to Fall
Written by Bolanile Shennu
Photographs by Julie Badin
One half expected to be entering the realm of fire and brimstone for the amount of smoke that filled the Julius Fall/ Winter 2012/13 catwalk pre-fashion show. The guest were greeted by a silvery film – an effect brought on by one too many smoke machines – which hit the black runway like smog. Then heart-beat-simulated electronic music assailed our eardrums, as we anxiously awaited the latest collection from the Japanese designer, Tatsuro Horikawa.
Julius’ vision for the upcoming autumn seemed to be futuristic and dark – which is not a far departure from the designer’s often gothic approach to menswear. Slender pale models almost skulked down the runway wearing long slinky sweaters, tailored knee-grazing blazers and baggy tapered pants in all varieties of tar-inspired materials and thick Astro Boy-esque boots. The style was almost like Aliens (yes, the movie) meets goth, but in a more I-am-too-sexy-for-my-shirt sort of way. This severe look was sold by the neophite models, all who seemed to have cheekbones chiseled from ice and hair slicked back with grease.
However, it wasn’t all a vision of svelte black figures. Julius did manage to sprinkle the collection with some very puffy jackets made from lighter colored woolen materials. And for those not into the whole close fitting coat infatuation, there was a bevy of A-line trenches in heather grey and white that could stealthily camouflage a more portly frame. These vest and jackets almost add a glimpse of hope to the otherwise morbid color palette – almost like a silver lining.